Whooper Swans were breeding along many of the fjords, this pair in Isafjörður.

I was now on my return to Reykjavík with a stop near Bjarkalundur for a final day of birding. Unfortunately my luck with fine weather had ended. The day's journey was first to Hólmavík where I took in the bizarre witchcraft museum. Afterwards I traveled the unpaved route 605 from fjord Steingrímsfjörður to fjord Breidafjörður over the highlands. In rain and fog and 25m (75ft) visibility the 26km (15 mile) white knuckle drive felt like a heroic experience, I kissed the ground when I reached the far side. But by now the wind joined the rain so my interest in birding waned and I chose not to explore the Bjarkalundur area. All in all, a tiny bit of adversity for an otherwise grand holiday.

A day and a half later my last few hours in Iceland were spent soaking at the most excellent Blue Lagoon near the airport.